End Your Camera Shake Blurs

Most occurrences of camera shake arise while holding the camera by hand

One of the most common reasons for what seemed like a good photo ending up being worthless is camera movement. Camera shake (which is vibration), is simply moving the camera as the shutter was held open, resulting in a blurred picture. This is typically caused by incorrectly holding the camera, not having any or inadequate camera support. Using of a slower shutter speed or combined with a longer lens focal length additionally increases the possibility of camera shake happening. ✓

Most occurrences of camera shake arise while holding the camera by hand. This, as you're probably aware, is a very trendy way to shoot photos so it's smart on your part to know when you're most likely become a victim of camera shake. Sort of like utilizing a shutter fast enough to freeze motion in a picture a shutter speed fast enough must also be used to freeze any camera motion. The actual speed of the shutter you select to stop camera shake is typically establish by a several factors.

Here's a dozen options for stopping camera shake and attaining crisp, luscious photos no matter the lens length, no matter the speed of the shutter.

Here's is a general photography "rule" which simply states that a camera may be hand held and safely shot without camera shake when photographers use this rule: shutter speed must be less than 1/focal length.

As an example, a 200mm focal length lens may be hand held using shutter speeds shorter or equal to 1/200 sec. DSLRs typically contain smaller image sensors than 35mm film SLRs, As a consequence prior to employing this 1/focal length rule, equivalent 35mm film focal length of the camera must be determined: Using the example above, shooting using a DSLR, the shutter time needs to be less than 1/(200*1,6) = 1/320 sec. However, by adding to the ISO value, the shutter exposure may be increased.

Waterfall Stabilization Comparisons
Camera shake can have a dramatic impact impact on moving objects. Changes in background blurring are apparent from the need to adjust the aperture size to achieve correct exposure. as in this image that compares two shots of a waterfall.


Use a Correct Posture for Handholding the Camera:

Bring Your Elbows In As often as you can squeeze your elbows tight against your sides. Your left forearm needs to be totally vertical and in a position behind your toes. Stay away from any temptation to bend forward and remove the weight from your legs; leaning over will produce camera shake. Move your elbows into your body and completely exhale before you depress the shutter button. When you’re using a big aperture or slow shutter speed (or even both), even a simple act such as taking a breath can initiate shake. By bringing your elbows tight against your body really helps keep you stable. You can also press your elbows firmly into your chest for even more stability. For added steadiness, you can bring your right elbow all the way into your chest. Completely exhale before pressing the shutter button to avoid initiating shake.

Use Your Knee as a Tripod You can create a body tripod by placing your elbow directly on your knee as you're sitting. You can also, bring in the other elbow for added support.

Lay Down Lie down flat and allow the lens to sit directly onto the ground. The single issue here is that you'll probably create quite a downward lens tilt and unless you are planning on photographing the pavement, you'll probably end up with a shot other than the one you’re hoping to capture.

Cradle It in your arm You can do this by creating a kind of of cradle effect for the lens in between your wrist and your shoulder. You might also stabilize the camera by balancing your elbow upon your knee.

Use Both Hands to Hold the Camera. Your left hand should be holding the lens, as your right holds the body of the camera and keeping your finger upon the shutter button at all times, and then by using a rolling motion for shooting (pressing down the shutter button too hard will create unnecessary shake).

Bend your knees and take a half a forward step. This will serve to equally distribute your weight over both your legs.

Raise the camera to your usual shooting position. For DSLR cameras, the viewfinder is held held in a firm position in front of the right eye, whereas point and shoot cameras should be placed at eye level, around 15 cm in front of your face.

Tripods and Supports

Use a sturdy tripod and head. Stay away from those cheap tripods. Do your homework and get a recognized, trusted brand. Be sure the tripod with it's head has the capacity to support the weight your camera with your heaviest lens. During those times when you can not or when tripods are not permitted, then break out the monopod instead.

Rest your camera upon a rock or some other solid object, even on the ground if you must.

Lean against a wall, fence or a tree.

Mirror Lockup or /Delay - several DSLR cameras contain this feature which allows you to flip the mirror up before clicking the shutter. Typically when the shutter button is pressed the mirror then flips up and consequently the shutter opens. As the mirror goes about flipping up it initiates a slap vibration that can create some sort of camera shake. By locking the mirror position up or employing a shutter delay stops this, but it's really only practical when mounted on a tripod.

Remote Shutter release, self timer, and release cord - also best used on a tripod, these added features let you to release the shutter without being near the camera, further reducing any risk of shake.

Image Stabilization

They go by a number of different names al dependent upon the camera company, ie Canon has IS- Image stabilization, Nikon use VR - for vibration reduction, Sigma calls theirs OS - optical stabilizer. Every DSLR manufacturer now provides cameras and or lenses that feature some sort of image stabilization for diminishing camera shake, while analogous features are now found in numerous compact point and shoot cameras. While this may help the useable (ie. steady) exposure length by three to four exposure stops, these anti-shake features don't offset motion blur occurring from moving subjects. Almost all manufacturers also recommend turning the stabilizer off when mounting the lens on a tripod. Even though they diminish camera shake, these image stabilizers were not created as a substitute for proper handholding techniques.

updated article Oct 5, 2011

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